Last weekend we headed to the peak in hopes of dry weather.
On arrival our hopes were dashed everything except one line was totally soaked. The one dry line was Masters Edge.
Masters Edge is probably the greatest line I have ever seen. I just had to try it!
On Saturday afternoon I dragged Nick G, Jem and Han to a damp and windy Millstone. Nick and I bouldered out the start a few times for a warm up. We were using pads for this one. After a quick warm up I was ready to have a burn so I tied on. I made it to the shot-holes without much fuss, placed the specially brought tricam, chalked up, shook out and eyed the huge run out! With my feet a couple of meters above the gear I decided I needed to take the lob to calm the nerves. I jumped, stopping barely above the ground but crucially I was not on the ground. It was on!
Next go I passed my previous high point and soldiered on. ( I say soldiered, I mean more carefully tiptoed!). The wind was howling, Not good for those delicate barn doory moves! Eyeing up the final lunge to the jug my foot slipped and I was off. You look down and see your ropes snaking towards the ground, you have a moment to contemplate your fate and then you make a soft landing next to your belayer “and Breath”.
Again I was above the gear. “This time” I though, “this time”. Well, this time my legs were shaking, the wind was howling, my hand were freezing and I was scared, “I’m off!!” I shouted as I plunged ground-wards once more! Time to go home.
The next morning we were up nice and early, not to catch the good conditions but because we had a date with the Roaches later that day. It was freezing.
I had one go to warm up and take the fall, this helped calm the nerves. Next go it was done!
This is by far the most satisfying piece of climbing I have ever been on!
A few goes later Nick topped out too. Good Day!