Its been a little while since I posed on there. I have been travelling away with work for the past month or so.
I had a pretty mega long trip to Morocco, spending a month trekking it around the same valley for the whole time. It was hot. At 2500 meters temps were reaching 40 degs, which isn’t great for trekking, or anything else for that matter. For me the trip basically involved cleaning up and dealing with copious amounts of vomit and diarrhoea whilst playing doctor for several weeks. There was some good bits though, beautiful food, nice scenery and friendly people.
At the end of the trip we travelled back to Marrakech ready for our flight out the next day. I had survived a whole month in Morocco without getting ill, which everyone including myself considered a miracle, but as soon as I got into the hotel room and booted up the air con down to 22 deg my insides started to feel a bit dodgy. To cut a long story short I then lost 1.5 stone in 4 days. Savage.
Which brings me onto climbing (yay), its been a while. You would have thought loosing that much weight and trekking around at 3000 meters for 30 days would make you pretty fit, but not so. The first session back was a bit of a shock, I felt lame and weak. Getting back into it now though.
Last week I was up in Pembroke on a family visit. I spent the days working with my dad helping him out with a few jobs but fortunately it was spring tides so in the evening I managed to get out for a few hours DWS ing. First off we went to Kato Zawn near Penally. There are some lovely routes here. The down climb which is 4+ is delightful and can be climbed in conjunction with the 5 to create a pretty cool circular adventure. The 6a is a little scary above the trench, the 7a was wet and the 7a+ was a strange one with just a few awkward moves.
I had the rockfax deepwater guide with me and in this there is one line described as a project with a very thin move on the headwall. I gave it a go from the bottom, and managed to climbing it to the top, onsight, happy days! The route is more like a boulder problem really, with a some tricky moves a little way above the sea. From the bottom of the cliff you climb up the 5 before venturing up the blank headwall. From jugs and undercuts on the 5 take a small pockety pinch with the right hand, left hand up to very thin crimpy slot, big move with right hand to small flat crimp, run your feet up the wall until easier climbing and the top is reached. After speaking to both Neil Gresham and Mike Robertson I believe this was the first ascent of the route
With regards to the grade it probably weighs in at about 7b or 7b+ but a boulder grade might be more appropriate at 7a ish. For the line see the route marked project in the Deep water guide.
The following evening we popped over to Barrel zawn near St Davids and had a great evening climbing the routes on this funky little wall.
All of this DWS has got me super psyched to do some more, oh wait a minute, I fly to Mallorca for 10 days of DWS fun next Monday. Cannot wait for that.
The van is coming along nicely. it know has a bed, lights, internal power for the laptop and things, almost a kitchen and lots of storage. The big trip is coming up and the van will be ready. Bring it on!