Academic Direct

There is a great little 8a high above the road in Avon Gorge called Academic. Its has a brilliant boulder problem crux which is reached  by a few moves up a blocky arete and a sketchy traverse. This route is a must for anyone operating around this level in the Bristol area.

The top crux of Academic Direct 8b

The top crux of Academic Direct 8b

The direct start was an oft talked about and occasionally tried project which climbs straight to the mid hight jug via some very hard climbing.

I tried the direct a few years ago, when I was up belaying Mike Goldthorpe on the original, despite not being able to do all of the moves I was fairly confident that it would be possible although I was still a long way off. After my initial attempt I didn’t return to the route for some time although I often thought about giving it more attention.

A couple of weeks ago after coaching on the UpGrade Junior coaching day Ben West and I popped up there to give it another bash. The direct start revolves around three hand moves and eight foot moves. You start with your right hand on a good pinch, left hand to a poor intermediate before taking a half pad undercut. You then move your feet several times to get a heel behind the pinch. The heel stabilises you on the undercut so you can take a small quarter pad side pull with your right hand. The crux is stepping out of the heel hook onto a spike, bumping your left foot to a smear before putting your heel back behind the pinch. You then do a big move to reach the mid hight “jug” before climbing the crux of the original route.

I think the lower crux would probably get Font 7C+ as a boulder problem and the top crux is about Font 7B.

After a few hours of trying the moves it started to come together. I could do everything but the big move to the “jug”. A few minor body position tweaks and I latched the move. If felt like it would take some time to refine the whole sequence in order to link it, non the less I thought I should have a redpoint. To my astonishment everything fell into place on the first go and I found myself with just the crux of the original route above me. Almost fluffing this I pulled my self over the top with the first ascent of  Academic Direct 8b in the bag.

Although the route isn’t the most inspiring line it is good to have a route of this difficulty in town and it has got to have some of the hardest moves in the gorge on it. I look forward to others repeating it.

I have since returned and placed two glue in bolts to give the start a more independent feel. Get on it people.

Thank to Ben for the belay and for recording the agent on his phone, here is the footage YouTube Preview Image

Fore anyone interested here is a video of the classic Swimming through a shark attack 8a+ in El Chorro which I climbed a few month back YouTube Preview Image

A weekend to remember

Last weekend I had to travel to Edinburgh for the BMC Youth Climbing Series final as many of the youth climbers I coach had qualified. This event is held at the impressive EICA. As Edinburgh is a long way from my home town of Bristol I decided to use the  competition as an excuse to go on a mini climbing trip. The aim was to stop wherever the weather looked good between Bristol and Scotland. The First stop, Nesscliffe.

Nesscliffe is definitely one of my favorite crags for hard trad. Its lines are just so inviting to climb. All of the routes follow really distinct features, usually either aretes, faces or grooves. The first route I had my eye on was My Piano E8 6c. My initial thoughts were to try and have an onsight go on the route but on arrival I couldn’t see the first peg which should have been somewhere shortly after the first crux. After looking at the route I decided against the onsight and climbed the it on toprope first. I worked out the gear and cobbled a basic sequence together then lowered to the ground. On inspection the two pegs after the crux appeared to have rusted away which made the first half of the route a pretty serious proposition. Despite this I felt confident and climbed the route placing all of the gear on the lead. It went smoothly and was almost disappointingly uneventfully. You can watch fellow Mammut team member Nathan Lee climbing the route in the video below.

The funny thing with head pointing is that you take the most dangerous route you dare to do and climb it in the most controlled and sterile way you can. I think I prefer the thrill you get when onsighting, which leads me nicely onto my next route; Yukan ll E7 6b.

Yukan ll is a stunning pitch which climbs and amazing tapering groove line with some very baffling and technical moves. I wanted to climb it onsight. I won’t say too much about the moves here so as not to spoil your onsight attempt but the climbing is great and pretty well protected throughout. I was chuffed to climb the route steadily making Yukan ll my first onsight at the grade of E7.

On Saturday I coached and supported the youths at the comp. They all climbed well, its great to see them continually improving.

Sunday came around and I drove from Edinburgh to Dumbarton in time for an early morning start. I hadn’t bouldered at Dumbarton for many years and I had almost forgotten how much quality this crag has. If only it was a little closer to home. What followed breakfast was possibly my best morning of climbing so far. Sabotage 8A was the first problem, shortly followed my Silverback 7C . I then ticked Firestarter 8A and all in time for lunch.

Sabotage is an amazing problem with a very complex sequence and powerful moves up the steep prow before a brilliant top out. Silverback has got to be one of the best 7C’s I have ever climbed. The move to the jug on the lip makes you feel like a real hero (a move/feeling worth traveling for!). Firestarter is characterised by very small holds and body tension, superb.

I finished the long weekend with a great day in the sunny Peak district where I climbed Tsunami 8A and The Press kneeling start 7C+ at Rubicon.

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I seem to have found a run of form recently which is supprising considering my lack of training and my love of pastries.

Really psyched for South Africa in the summer now. I might even do a bit of training.


Magic Wood Video

To celebrate almost a year since our visit to Magic Wood I have put together a video of our time there.

Problems featured include:

Grit De Lux 7B
Wonderboy 5B
Foxy Lady 8A
Moo’s Gully 4B
Intermezzo 7C (Flash)
Die Schone 6B (Flash)
Supernova 7C+
Never Ending Story part 2 8A
Unnammed 6C
The Gift 7C
Piranja 7C+
Jenny 6C
Nothing Changes 8A


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The Comp Scene

Over the summer I seemed to suffer from a lack of form. I have been trying to understand why this may have been. It is possibly down to the fact that I climbed hard for 16 days in a row in August and suffered form a bit of burn out or, perhaps it was the fact that last winter was my best climbing season yet where I achieved many of the goals I had set for myself and therefore my desire was a little lacking. What ever the reason was it had had an effect on my climbing.

I had two weeks of climbing in Spain where I didn’t achieve the things I wanted to, partly down to uncontrollable circumstances such as bees, wet weather and tweaky monos. Don’t get me wrong I still did plenty of climbing but just not to the standard I had set myself.

The winter season came about and with it the start of the competition season. I really enjoy competitions. There is a great social aspect to them and well as the fact that they push me to try really hard. I used to view them as great training but now I seem to enjoy them for what they are. To start the season I did a few local competitions as well as two rounds of Blokfest. My results were not very pleasing with me placing around 20th position in both rounds of Blokfest. I was slightly disappointed with these results as last season I made a few finals and was always in the top 10.

Mammut had asked me to compete at this years FBO. I wasnt really looking forward to competing as I didn’t think I was in the best form, I decided to just go into the qualification round with no expectations. The setting for the FBO was excellent with many varied and interesting problems and before I knew it I had flashed 24 of the 25 qualification blocs. This put me in 1st place heading into the finals.

Problem 2 FBO15 Final

The final was great fun to be a part of with the vibe in isolation being  friendly and fun. Sam Whittacker, Ben Moon and I were matching one another bloc for bloc until the last problem. Ben Moon completed the last climb where Sam and I could not, crowning him “King of the wave”. I finished in 2nd position which was  really unexpected and a great confidence boost. Perhaps I was seeing a return to form.

Standing next to the legends. FBO15 Podium

The following weekend saw the first Rab Superbloc Masters competition take place in the EXCEL centre in London. This event was an invitation only competition with all of the best competition climbers in the UK taking part. Someone (Alex Hazelhurst) probably though it would be good entertainment to invite me, perhaps he thought it would be funny to watch me flounder.

There were 20 female and 20 male competitors. My goal was to not come last (gotta be optimistic). The competition was run in an IFSC world cup format so effectively our first round was the semi final. I was out 4th. The running order had been established by taking the British Championship results from last year, as I was the highest ranked non GB team member in that event I had a pretty good position in the running order. The problems were hard. Dave Barrens was out first and we could hear from the crowd and the commentary that he had only achieved one top. Out of the four problems I got three bonus’, usually this would be a pretty poor score in a competition of this calibre but, as all of the competitors completed their rounds my name was still sitting in 6th place on the scoreboard just scraping me into the final. Three of us qualified for the final without even climbing a problem, the climbs really must have been hard.

Superbloc problem 1
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc problem 3
Photo Duncan Bottrill

I was absolutely buzzing to have made the final, having surpassed my ambition of not coming last by 14 places.

In the final I climbed ok but thin skin and the skill of the other athletes meant I finished in 6th position. A placing I was very happy with.

Superbloc Final 1

Superbloc final 2
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Final 3
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Final 4
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Podium

As soon as the superbloc finished Ben West and I drove to Font for eight days of bouldering. Unfortunately the weather for our week away was far from ideal. Out of the eight day trip we managed a meagre three and a half day of climbing. Despite this I still had my most successful trip to the forest climbing a number of hard boulders in quick time. Because our weather windows were so short we crammed in as much climbing per day. My tick list for the week is below:

Day 1 (half day):

  • Belle Gueule assis 7B flash
  • Pancras assis 7C
Day 2
  • Fourmis Rouge 7C
  • Big Boss 7C
  • La Directe du Surplomb de la Mee 7C+/8A
Day 3
  • Haute Tension 7C+
  • Hyper Tension 8A
Day 4
  • Imothep 8A
We will hopefully get a video put together of some of the best bits or our trip soon.
The bad weather did enable Ben and I do to plenty of work on our newly started Coaching Businesses
We are putting together a few “bouldering essentials” tips videos, episode 1 is below. Check out Up-Grades Facebook page and give us a like for forthcoming episodes.
The next big competition is the CWIF so I’m off to do a finger board session.
See you all out there


New Year in Northumberland

I like to climb on New Years day. It has become a tradition, a start the year as you mean to go on kind of thing. I have spent New Year climbing ice in the Alps, trad in Pembroke sport at Ansteys and this year is was to be bouldering in Northumberland.

Northumberland or “The County” is a place I have heard a lot about but never visited before, after all I can be in font in about the same amount of travel time. The climbing style in The County reminded me a lot of Font, the climbing and the stone feeling somewhat alike.

After the 6 hour drive from Bristol we arrived at Hepburn. There are a few problems of significance there, the two most prominent are “Northern Soul” 7A+ and “Preparation H” 7C+/8A. Northern Soul in an amazing boulder. It starts up a technical slab into a crack and the onto a hideously slopey topout in Highball terrain. I managed to flash this boulder with some beta from a very helpful ground crew. I got pretty close on Preparation H, dropping the top a few time before darkness stopped play. It was time to head home for turkey Fajitas, Scrabble, Red wine and NYE.

The next day we headed to Kyloe in the Woods, a fairly good wet weather option. There are many classics here through all the grades. We were here to try “The Yorkshireman” hard 7B+. Its an absolutely classic bloc which climbs a flared diagonal crack before a hard deadpoint move to a good edge and the top. I had to try hard on this and it was only with a bit of helpful Beta from Dan Varian that we figured out the bizarre sequence.

The best day we had was at Bowden doors. The conditions were perfect, it was cold clear and crisp. It was our fourth day on but this didn’t seem to be slowing us down. I had one of those great sessions where you sort of forget about the guidebook and walk along the crag climbing what looks good. Some of the best problems were Stagged 7B+, Temptation 7B+ and The Crack 7C+/8A, this, as its name suggests climbs a crack feature on a very font like boulder. The climb looks easy, feels nails when you are trying it and steady when you get it right.

Our last day was spent trekking around on the Simonside hills finding hidden boulders and admiring the stunning views. By day five my skin was thin and my body was aching but it was just so great to be out climbing on such good rock.

The short trip has left me with more projects to go at and I cannot wait to return to Northumberland. Below is a short video put together by Ben West from the trip.

F-BO 2015

Last year I attended F-BO 2014 (The Foundry’s annual bouldering competition). It was a great event with brilliant problems and big cash prizes.

Competing in the final of F-BO 14

This year the competition is happening again. If you are into your bouldering competitions this is definitely one to put on your list for this winter.

I hope to see you all there.

To get you psyched whilst you wait here is a video from last year.

BMC Coaching Symposium

I Have just returned from a long weekend in North Wales where I was attending the annual BMC coaching symposium. This event is organised by the BMC to get a whole load of climbing coaches together to discuss best coaching practice, new ideas and techniques. Many of these coaches are also very keen climbers which makes for some good climbing sessions squeezed in around the course.


On Friday morning Ben West did Roof of Baby Buddha 7C+

Ben West on Rood of Baby Buddha

In the afternoon a whole group of us headed over to the little Orme to look at Rob Lamey’s DWS Heel Hook Look. We were supper psyched and supper unprepared which meant I ended up climbing the wrong/a variation on the original line at about 7c. We have called this variation “We ‘ad a Look”.

Mikey G on We ‘ad a look


As the tide dropped and the water became too shallow to solo we headed over to the Diamond to see what all the fuss was about. The via feratta approach was fun, and the routes where just as good! Both Ben West and I managed to onsight the classic Boat People 7c and I finished the day off with a monumental battle up the 35 meter Wall of Evening Light 7b+.

On Saturday we dragged a bunch of Britain’s finest climbers and coaches out for a night session at Elephantiasis cave. I’d told them there was a 4 star 7A among other problems to go at. It turns out my knowledge wasn’t completely up to scratch and we ended up being eaten by Midgys in a hot sweaty cave. I did manage a cool ascent of Going Down on an Elephant 7B+ in far from ideal conditions.

Sunday was the final day of the Symposium and it consisted of practical sessions at the Beacon climbing centre. We started with a session on on Drills and System Boards with Si Rawlinson. This session was great and really showed me that many climbing centres are missing a trick in this department. Expect to see changes in the way core climbing skills are taught in centres all around the country soon. The next session was Training vs Performance by Victoria Hadnett. This was about the way the mind deals with pressure and anxiety in a training and a performance environment as well as teaching us about how the mind learns new skills. Very interesting. We finished the day off with a session from Tom Greenall and Lucinda Whittaker about Building the Athlete. In this session we learnt about how to train and coach a climber to become and all round athlete and one that will be able to participate in our sport for a long time without the fear of injury or burn out.

Today was a day of trad. I have not done much trad climbing since taking a ground fall from a hard route back in the Summer of 2013. What better partner to go out with on a trad day than Mike Goldthorp. We had our eyes set on Pretty Girls Make Graves which is an E6 6b up on Cwm Glas Bach. We warmed up on El Guide Direct E3 5c. I was expecting this route to feel tricky and a little scary as my head really hasn’t been in the trad game. It went like a dream! We moved onto Rimsky Korsakov, a soft E5 6a just to the left. This route also went down smoothly with not much of a fight. Next up was Pretty Girls, but on the way round we became distracted by a line of chalk up a small blank wall just to the right. This route is called Ring my Bell. After a fall or two from us both we each lead the route ground up. We had thought the route was E6 6b but it turns out it has been upgraded to E7 6b, happy days! Next up was the main event. Pretty Girls Make Graves. This route had a reputation for being fiercely pumpy on good gear. I was up first. I was feeling great, all but no trad for 18 months and here I was having an awesome day. I started my way up the crack systems, finger locks and hand jams everywhere and more gear than you can shake a stick at. Had I placed to much? I was getting pumped, I could feel the lactic acid coursing through my veins. On the last move you takes a big pinch with your left hand crank for a jug at the top. I was in. I whooped for joy and pulled my sweaty coursing body over the top into a crumpled heap.

“This is what trad is all about” I thought to myself.

I’m back in the game! (Just in time for bouldering season)


International Jet Setter

Over the last few weeks I have got a small taste of what it might be like to be an international climbing superstar (although my trips were self funded), travelling between climbing destinations in quick succession.

In two and a bit weeks I have climbed in Switzerland, France, Wales and England.

First up was Switzerland. This trip was actually a family holiday but our chalet just so happened to be next to Magic Wood, happy days!

Magic Wood is an absolutely stunning bouldering location situated in a high mountain valley next to a beautiful river and surrounded with snow capped peaks.

Magic wood has been a venue that I have always wanted to visit, so when the chance of a trip arouse I grabbed the opportunity.

In total we spent only four days climbing here but we seemed to get a surprising amount done. I believe the amount we did was down to the climbing style here. It seems to lend itself to fast ascents. If you have the power you can do stuff quickly, if you don’t then, you cant.

Highlights of the trip for me include:

Intermezzo 7C Flash (small crimps on a 40 degree wall, soft)

Supernova 7C/+ (Slopey, slippery, slimy ramp. Classic. I found it hard)

Piranja 7C+ (cool wall with one hard deadpoint move)

Neverending story part 2 8A (Powerful moves on smooth rock)

Foxy Lady 8A (Tiny hands, massive feet!)

Nothing Changes 8A (Bad landing. Loved it)

I have got footage of most of the climbing from this trip (hense the lack of photos) so I will try and put a small video together soon. I will definitely be back for more Swiss bouldering in the not too distant future.

After Switzerland I had seven full on days of work at home. I did two days of route setting, three days of coaching, a day of guiding and a day of Stone floor restoration. You can read about some of the coaching work I did here

Before we new it we were back on the Euro tunnel on our way to Font. This Font trip was partly work and partly play. I was accompanying three boys I have been coaching for several years to show them the delights of the forest.

This trip was even shorter than the Magic wood trip, with only 3 days of climbing to be had. On arrival the conditions were far from perfect, humid, sticky and about 20 degrees but we were so happy to be there we just got stuck right in.

photo Max Ayrton

Fontainebleau is possibly my favourite place to climb. I love the style here. Not many grab and pull type problems and you are lucky if you get a quick tick. You have to put the work in here to reap the rewards. Fortunately I seem to be fairly well suited to it, perhaps its my ability to grovel my way up rocks. Whatever I do it seems to work out ok. In our three days here my ticklist included:

Sur-Prises 7B+ (one really hard move)

Symbiose 7C (cool sequence through a roof, hard sloper move to finish)

Appartenance assis 7C+ (I thought the 7C started as a sit and was pleasantly suprised to find out it was 7C+)

La Balance sans pocket 7C+/8A  (campusing on slopers).

The boys also had a great first trip to the forest and all came away having climbed 7A as well as having been schooled on some brilliant 5A+ slabs. Im sure they will be back.

Getting schooled on a Font slab

Marie Rose CAC

Finally we have just spent the weekend up in the Gower. Trying to climb some fairly damp rock. I will be back to soon for some unfinished business. In the mean time its back to work!

Oh I forgot to mention an amazing route I did  at the the beginning of May. The route is called Galactica 8b and is situated high above the ground on Spacehunter wall in Cheddar gorge. This route combines great climbing and a stunning positions to create a great climbing experience.

First crux on Galactica



Back in January Hannah and I travelled to Albarracin for a couple of days bouldering. The first day was supposed to be a travel and rest day but when we arrived the sun was shining and there was frost on the ground, perfect bouldering conditions. We jumped straight in.

I generally don’t like to decide on what to try before arriving at a venue, part of the joy of climbing for me is running around climbing what looks good. Saying this I did have my eye on a few things, Zarzamora being one. This boulder is graded 8A and revolves around one big move to an edge. Once I sorted my method the boulder was done, pretty steady for 8A and not bad for 10 minutes work. Zarzamora is great fun and the big move feels beautiful to do, in the UK I think this boulder would be graded 7C.

Waking up the next morning we were greeted with slushy wet snow falling from the sky. Forced rest day for us then. We spent the day wandering around the beautiful historic town of Albarracin.

I was a bit cheesed off with the weather as we only had a few days and I was keen to get on some boulders. Fortunately the next day we opened the windows to clear blue skys, crisp air and snow on the ground. We were up early and psyched to get started.

The alternative finish to Zarzamora was my aim for the day, this problem has a lofty grade of 8B and is called Zarzaparilla. First a quick warm up/epic on El Ermitano 7A+. This problem was supposed to just warm me up nicely but ended up being a real fight as the top out had a layer of frozen snow covering it, (Sp)icy times! Anyway, onto the main event;  Zarzaparilla climbs through the hard moves of Zarzamora and then rightwards through a much harder finish. The finishing moves revolve around a very small break which you crimp. All kinds of toe hooks and deadpoints aid you with this.

On to the grade. If this boulder problem is actually 8B then this is fairly significant for me as it would be my first. In my opinion the bottom section is 7Cish as I have already said, the independant finishing moves felt similar in difficulty as The Joker to me (soft 8A). So for me Zarzaparilla felt like 7C into  soft 8A. If this problem were in Britain it would probably get 8A+ but isn’t the main reason we all go to Spain the “Holiday Grades”, or is it the sunshine?

Talking of sunshine, I cant wait for the sun to come out around here. I keep dreaming of the deep water soloing season.

See you out there.