Name That Problem!

Name the problems in the photos to show off your bouldering Knowledge!

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Shinta Ozawa on the same problem.

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Some other photos

First Breakfast in the van

The van of "Dreams"

How good is your French?

 

 

Mallorca DWS

So the idea was to have a budget pre trip warm up trip. The team consisted of Mike Goldthorp, Rose, Hannah and I. We found some super cheap flights to the paradise island of Mallorca and instantly thought of psycobloc.

The first night was spent in the airport smoking garden on a lovely soft piece of grass under a tree after eating some delicious grub at Angela’s pizzeria. The next morning we go the bus across the island to the beautiful town of Porto Cristo, from here it was a short taxi ride and a long walk to our home for the next 10 days, Cala Barques. We found a nice place to pitch up on the hillside overlooking the bay and made it into home.

Beautiful Cala Barques

Cova Del Diablo

We whiled away the first few days getting back into the dws mind frame on the classic routes at the Cova, highlights include an onsight of Klem’s erection 7b and the amazing Might of the Stalactite 7a. We also explored the Metrosexual and the Snatch area. In the Metro sexual cave we climbed all of the routes except Homosexual, because that had a pretty bad drop zone. I managed to climb Bandito 7c onsight. This route had a really cool starting sequence with a jump off to small pinches to a flat hold and a hard move right at the top, which nearly saw me off. I then turned my attention to Smash It In 8a, a really steep roof problem leading into the finish of Bandito with its hard final move. After a few splash downs working the sequence I got it on my third go. Get in.

We then visited Cova Del Diablo which is a stunning towering cliff with some amazing routes to be climbed quite a few meters above the sea. I onsighted the classic Afroman 7b which pulls out of a massive roof on jugs but has a spicy sting in the tail. Mike and I took many splash downs from the dyno on Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels but after about 15 goes Mike managed to latch it only to discover the route is by no means over there and he took a good 15 meter fall from the top crux. To get out I climbed the Lobster 6c which was the most terrifying thing I have ever done. I only just managed to pull through the final roof with sweaty hands and shaking legs 18 meters above the drink! I loved the experience so much I went back for another innings with Surfer Dead 6c; this ascent was altogether more relaxed.

Back at Baques we ventured over to the fearsome 22 meter Tarantino cave where we did a not so smooth ascent of Kill Bill Vol 1 7b.

Rehearsing the moves on Kill Bill Vol 1

We managed to climb 9 days in a row. This feat was achieved by only climbing for short sessions, not really more than 3 hours a day and relaxing a lot on the beach or in the sea.

Coffee

Of great interest and amusement were the tortoises which seemed to really like eating poo!

For me the highlight of the trip was watching a French dude climb his long term project Transversal 7a. He had been trying this route all trip and on his last day with tired arms and sore skin he managed to climb the route just before his departure. This left the whole of Sa Cova buzzing with psych.

Vid to come.

Bring on France

The Empire Strikes Back

Today I climbed The Empire Strikes Back 8a+ at Cheddar gorge. I climbed the route in two short sessions it probably took 5 or 6 redpoint goes. It was really nice to climb this route just before leaving for my European climbing trip because I was under the impression that I was pretty out of shape from all the work/not climbing that I have been doing. Hopefully this ascent will inspire me to greater things on the continent. I look forward to trying the extention to this route  “Death Star” 8c on my return. Ed climbed Homegrown today as well. It was really nice to see some hard routes go down, gets the psych pumping.

Bring on Mallorca