A2 Pulley Rupture

This summer I had a 5 week bouldering trip to the Rocklands in South Africa booked. It promised to be the trip of a life time.

I had prepared well with my training. I was feeling fit, strong and healthy. For the first 6 days of climbing I was on great form, ticking off hard classics quickly. I had high hopes for the trip, until this happened:

In the video you can hear several different loud cracks and pops. On the first hold I move to you can hear a faint crack and then whilst swapping hands on the fiddly match there are two loud popping sounds. I now believe that the first crack was a partial tear of my A2 pulley and then whilst bumping around on the match with with poor feet the pulley ruptured fully.

Initially I had no pain in the finger and there wasn’t much swelling. There was just a strange fuzzy tingling feeling and the finger had absolutely no strength.

It was a 40 minute walk back to the car, during this time I kept my hand raised above my head, the cold wind helped to keep the swelling down. Arriving back at the house I iced the finger to keep the swelling away.

The icing technique I use is the one suggested by Dave Mcleod. I put 5 to 10 ice cubes in a bowl of cold water and leave my hand in the bowl for 10 to 15 minutes. At first my hand goes white but after about 10 minutes it it starts to flush with blood. You can tell when this happens because you will feel a nice warm throb in your hand. It will also be a nice pink colour. I believe this a trained response and you get quicker at flushing the blood to your hand the more you do it.

At first we thought I may have just dislocated my joint. I theorised that the two pops could be the joint dislocation and relocating and I hoped it would heal up fast.

I went to the local hospital in Clanwilliam to see a doctor. He sent me for an X-ray.



The Xray showed that there was no damage to the bones in my finger but couldn’t give me any information about the pulleys. He just vaguely told me to rest and not climb for “a while”.

Finger pulley system

Finger pulley system

Pulleys are ligaments that hold the finger flexor tendons (FDP and FDS) onto our finger bones. There are 5 pulleys, A1-A5.

The pulleys experience extremely high loads during rock climbing, especially when crimping. and I suspected I had done damage to one of these.

From previous pulley strains I have suffered I know that when pressure is applied to the palm side of the suspected injured pulley there is localised pain/discomfort.

Testing for pulley strain

Testing for pulley strain

With this injury I had no pain just a dull sensation where the A2 pulley should be.

Not satisfied with the local doctors vague advice I decided I was in need of an MRI scan to give me a proper diagnosis for the injury. Fortunately I had travel insurance for the trip which was provided by Sports Cover Direct. They organised and paid for my scan without any hassle at Durbanville Mediclinic in Cape Town.

The results of the MRI scan were conclusive:

MRI scan showing bowstring of the tendon

MRI scan showing bowstring of the tendon

MRI scan showing cross section of the fingers. Note bowstring of tendon and remains of A2 pulley

MRI scan showing cross section of the fingers. Note bowstring of tendon and remains of A2 pulley

This scan shows the palm side of the hand. The tendon in the ring finger is more visible because if is bowstringing away from the bone

This scan shows the palm side of the hand. The tendon in the ring finger is more visible because if is bowstringing away from the bone

I had suffered a full rupture of the A2 pulley in my right ring finger.

Whilst I knew a full rupture meant having a substantial amount of time off climbing my head was still full of questions:

“How long will I need off climbing?”

“Will my fingers ever recover back to full strength?”

“Will I need surgery on the injury?”

“What rehab should I do to maximise my recovery?”

When I returned home I booked an appointment with a hand surgeon. I wanted to know if surgery was needed or if a conservative approach to rehab could be taken.

The surgeons recommendation was that surgery was not needed for a single pulley rupture and that conservative rehab would be the best option. He referred me to Dr Schoffls paper on finger injuries which gives a nice timeline of the rehab process.

Table for scoring pulley injuries

Dr Schoffls table for scoring pulley injuries

Table showing recommended rehab schedule

Dr Schoffls table showing recommended rehab schedule

I had a grade III injury so a non surgical rehab was recommended. I was overjoyed with his news and I booked in to see Nina Leonfelner. Nina is a physiotherapist who has worked with climbers that have suffered  from pulley ruptures in the past.

She built me a rehab program taking Dr Schoffls tables into consideration.

So for the first three weeks after my injury I had rested and iced the injury twice a day. I used tape as protection whenever I had to do anything physical with my hand. I also did some very gentle mobilisation of my fingers.The idea of this was to stop scar tissue building up and attaching to the tendons which could lead to a poor range of movement in future.  These mobility exercises included:

YouTube Preview Image YouTube Preview Image

For the following month I did some very light resistance exercises to promote healing of the damaged tissue. These included using the rice bucket, squeezy balls, putty.

YouTube Preview Image

I also did a lot of antagonistic forearm work these included wrist curls and lots of work with the powerfingers.

YouTube Preview Image

I had a  30 minute routine using these that I would do three to five times a week.

After this stage of the rehab my finger was feeling much stronger and my finger had almost  returned to full range of movement. It was time to move onto the next stage.

The mid stage rehab that I was given was a bit more intensive. It revolved around doing weighted finger curls. The idea is to start with multiple fingers with a low weight. I then increased the weight until I reached about 5kg’s without any discomfort. I then reduced the number of fingers being used and started back at a low weight until finally, after about a month, I could finger curl 4-5kg’s on one finger without any pain.

YouTube Preview Image

This is the rehab stage that I am currently working on. I am really happy to be seeing real gains in my finger strenght and feel confident that I am well on the way to making a full recovery. Nina tells me there is one more rehab stage to complete before I can get back to the climbing properly. I will keep you updated as to how I get on with this.

In the mean time check out this great article written by Robin O’Leary and Nina Leonfelner on ukclimbing.






Poppy, Anstey’s Cove

Anyone who has climbed on Ferocity wall at Ansteys cove will know that this crag  lives up to its name incredibly well. The routes consistently feel very hard for the given grades and are characterised by hard and powerful climbing with very few rests. Respect has to go to Ken Palmer for his foresight in climbing the majority of the routes on the wall. He must have been an absolute beast.

I had been trying Tuppence 8b for too long . My first session on Tuppence went really well, I did all of the moves first try, fell off the top jump move first redpoint and this is where every go has ended since. I must have had 10 sessions or more on the route and every session I would fall on the top move. It was becoming a real mental barrier for me. I would climb easily to the last move, fall, pull straight back on and do the route to the top, every time. I think there were a few elements to my failure on this route, firstly every time I reached the last move  I expected to fall secondly I had this feeling in the back of my mind that I should have already climbed the route. This thought added extra unwanted pressure. Finally, I just did not visit the wall regularly enough to really find my flow through the lower section. I decided I did not like the experience I was having on this route, climbing is supposed to be fun after all.




The infamous Tuppence drop knee

The infamous Tuppence drop knee

I moved my attention right to Poppy, the hardest “up” route on the wall. I had belayed Gav Symonds on it a few years back on his successful redpoint and he had made it look like a path. I wanted a new challenge and decided to give it a try. On my first session I put the clips in, did all of the moves, just, then gave it one redpoint burn. There is a move where you match your heel above your hand on the same hold. Whilst doing this my heel slipped trapping my finger between the rubber of my boot and the rock as I fell, the result of this was a “circumcision” of my index finger and the end of a very short session.

Sore Finger

Six months later and I was back. Poppy 8b+ breaks down into three boulder problems which link together with no real rests, to me it feels like V4 into V9 into V7. I chalk twice on the route, right hand once mid crux and left hand once before the top move, it hardly felt worth carrying a chalk bag. Basically this route is hard and continuous. I felt like I had a good chance of getting through the hard crux from the ground but the final moves involving an uncomfortable front two pocket were feeling difficult.

There are several other easier routes which climb through the last crux sequence of Poppy so I decided to do some of these first to get the top crux wired. First up was Postman Pat 8a+. Postman Pat starts on the left hand side of the wall and follows an obvious break line rightwards across many of the other routes on the wall before finishing up the top crux of Poppy. I have some phone footage of my ascent thanks to Lisa

After Postman Pat I climbed Cyberdog 8b. This route climbs the cruxy start of Tuppence, through an amazing sequence involving a super thin tufa before joining the top of Poppy.



After doing these routes I felt confident that if I got through the hard crux on Poppy I could be able to fight my way to the top.

I had one session on a Monday to reacquaint myself with the moves. They went surprisingly smoothly which got me psyched. I drove back on Wednesday With Mr Pickford to dispatch but it was not to be. I just couldn’t quite stick the last move in the hard middle sequence, my core was just too “saggy” from not enough rest days. I drove home empty handed but really confident that I had what it took to climb the route.

After two rest days I returned,placed the clips and dispatched the route first go of the day. I was overjoyed and so psyched that I swung the clips into Fishermans Tale 8b, tried the moves and climbed it first go from the ground.

We celebrated with the South Wests best fish and chips on the cliff top overlooking a lovely sunset. A great way to end my best weeks climbing ever. In seven days I climbed:

Postman Pat 8a+,Cyberdog 8b, Poppy 8b+ and Fishermans Tale 8b.



A weekend to remember

Last weekend I had to travel to Edinburgh for the BMC Youth Climbing Series final as many of the youth climbers I coach had qualified. This event is held at the impressive EICA. As Edinburgh is a long way from my home town of Bristol I decided to use the  competition as an excuse to go on a mini climbing trip. The aim was to stop wherever the weather looked good between Bristol and Scotland. The First stop, Nesscliffe.

Nesscliffe is definitely one of my favorite crags for hard trad. Its lines are just so inviting to climb. All of the routes follow really distinct features, usually either aretes, faces or grooves. The first route I had my eye on was My Piano E8 6c. My initial thoughts were to try and have an onsight go on the route but on arrival I couldn’t see the first peg which should have been somewhere shortly after the first crux. After looking at the route I decided against the onsight and climbed the it on toprope first. I worked out the gear and cobbled a basic sequence together then lowered to the ground. On inspection the two pegs after the crux appeared to have rusted away which made the first half of the route a pretty serious proposition. Despite this I felt confident and climbed the route placing all of the gear on the lead. It went smoothly and was almost disappointingly uneventfully. You can watch fellow Mammut team member Nathan Lee climbing the route in the video below.

The funny thing with head pointing is that you take the most dangerous route you dare to do and climb it in the most controlled and sterile way you can. I think I prefer the thrill you get when onsighting, which leads me nicely onto my next route; Yukan ll E7 6b.

Yukan ll is a stunning pitch which climbs and amazing tapering groove line with some very baffling and technical moves. I wanted to climb it onsight. I won’t say too much about the moves here so as not to spoil your onsight attempt but the climbing is great and pretty well protected throughout. I was chuffed to climb the route steadily making Yukan ll my first onsight at the grade of E7.

On Saturday I coached and supported the youths at the comp. They all climbed well, its great to see them continually improving.

Sunday came around and I drove from Edinburgh to Dumbarton in time for an early morning start. I hadn’t bouldered at Dumbarton for many years and I had almost forgotten how much quality this crag has. If only it was a little closer to home. What followed breakfast was possibly my best morning of climbing so far. Sabotage 8A was the first problem, shortly followed my Silverback 7C . I then ticked Firestarter 8A and all in time for lunch.

Sabotage is an amazing problem with a very complex sequence and powerful moves up the steep prow before a brilliant top out. Silverback has got to be one of the best 7C’s I have ever climbed. The move to the jug on the lip makes you feel like a real hero (a move/feeling worth traveling for!). Firestarter is characterised by very small holds and body tension, superb.

I finished the long weekend with a great day in the sunny Peak district where I climbed Tsunami 8A and The Press kneeling start 7C+ at Rubicon.

YouTube Preview Image

I seem to have found a run of form recently which is supprising considering my lack of training and my love of pastries.

Really psyched for South Africa in the summer now. I might even do a bit of training.


Magic Wood Video

To celebrate almost a year since our visit to Magic Wood I have put together a video of our time there.

Problems featured include:

Grit De Lux 7B
Wonderboy 5B
Foxy Lady 8A
Moo’s Gully 4B
Intermezzo 7C (Flash)
Die Schone 6B (Flash)
Supernova 7C+
Never Ending Story part 2 8A
Unnammed 6C
The Gift 7C
Piranja 7C+
Jenny 6C
Nothing Changes 8A


YouTube Preview Image


The Comp Scene

Over the summer I seemed to suffer from a lack of form. I have been trying to understand why this may have been. It is possibly down to the fact that I climbed hard for 16 days in a row in August and suffered form a bit of burn out or, perhaps it was the fact that last winter was my best climbing season yet where I achieved many of the goals I had set for myself and therefore my desire was a little lacking. What ever the reason was it had had an effect on my climbing.

I had two weeks of climbing in Spain where I didn’t achieve the things I wanted to, partly down to uncontrollable circumstances such as bees, wet weather and tweaky monos. Don’t get me wrong I still did plenty of climbing but just not to the standard I had set myself.

The winter season came about and with it the start of the competition season. I really enjoy competitions. There is a great social aspect to them and well as the fact that they push me to try really hard. I used to view them as great training but now I seem to enjoy them for what they are. To start the season I did a few local competitions as well as two rounds of Blokfest. My results were not very pleasing with me placing around 20th position in both rounds of Blokfest. I was slightly disappointed with these results as last season I made a few finals and was always in the top 10.

Mammut had asked me to compete at this years FBO. I wasnt really looking forward to competing as I didn’t think I was in the best form, I decided to just go into the qualification round with no expectations. The setting for the FBO was excellent with many varied and interesting problems and before I knew it I had flashed 24 of the 25 qualification blocs. This put me in 1st place heading into the finals.

Problem 2 FBO15 Final

The final was great fun to be a part of with the vibe in isolation being  friendly and fun. Sam Whittacker, Ben Moon and I were matching one another bloc for bloc until the last problem. Ben Moon completed the last climb where Sam and I could not, crowning him “King of the wave”. I finished in 2nd position which was  really unexpected and a great confidence boost. Perhaps I was seeing a return to form.

Standing next to the legends. FBO15 Podium

The following weekend saw the first Rab Superbloc Masters competition take place in the EXCEL centre in London. This event was an invitation only competition with all of the best competition climbers in the UK taking part. Someone (Alex Hazelhurst) probably though it would be good entertainment to invite me, perhaps he thought it would be funny to watch me flounder.

There were 20 female and 20 male competitors. My goal was to not come last (gotta be optimistic). The competition was run in an IFSC world cup format so effectively our first round was the semi final. I was out 4th. The running order had been established by taking the British Championship results from last year, as I was the highest ranked non GB team member in that event I had a pretty good position in the running order. The problems were hard. Dave Barrens was out first and we could hear from the crowd and the commentary that he had only achieved one top. Out of the four problems I got three bonus’, usually this would be a pretty poor score in a competition of this calibre but, as all of the competitors completed their rounds my name was still sitting in 6th place on the scoreboard just scraping me into the final. Three of us qualified for the final without even climbing a problem, the climbs really must have been hard.

Superbloc problem 1
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc problem 3
Photo Duncan Bottrill

I was absolutely buzzing to have made the final, having surpassed my ambition of not coming last by 14 places.

In the final I climbed ok but thin skin and the skill of the other athletes meant I finished in 6th position. A placing I was very happy with.

Superbloc Final 1

Superbloc final 2
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Final 3
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Final 4
Photo Duncan Bottrill

Superbloc Podium

As soon as the superbloc finished Ben West and I drove to Font for eight days of bouldering. Unfortunately the weather for our week away was far from ideal. Out of the eight day trip we managed a meagre three and a half day of climbing. Despite this I still had my most successful trip to the forest climbing a number of hard boulders in quick time. Because our weather windows were so short we crammed in as much climbing per day. My tick list for the week is below:

Day 1 (half day):

  • Belle Gueule assis 7B flash
  • Pancras assis 7C
Day 2
  • Fourmis Rouge 7C
  • Big Boss 7C
  • La Directe du Surplomb de la Mee 7C+/8A
Day 3
  • Haute Tension 7C+
  • Hyper Tension 8A
Day 4
  • Imothep 8A
We will hopefully get a video put together of some of the best bits or our trip soon.
The bad weather did enable Ben and I do to plenty of work on our newly started Coaching Businesses Up-Grade.uk
We are putting together a few “bouldering essentials” tips videos, episode 1 is below. Check out Up-Grades Facebook page and give us a like for forthcoming episodes.
The next big competition is the CWIF so I’m off to do a finger board session.
See you all out there


New Year in Northumberland

I like to climb on New Years day. It has become a tradition, a start the year as you mean to go on kind of thing. I have spent New Year climbing ice in the Alps, trad in Pembroke sport at Ansteys and this year is was to be bouldering in Northumberland.

Northumberland or “The County” is a place I have heard a lot about but never visited before, after all I can be in font in about the same amount of travel time. The climbing style in The County reminded me a lot of Font, the climbing and the stone feeling somewhat alike.

After the 6 hour drive from Bristol we arrived at Hepburn. There are a few problems of significance there, the two most prominent are “Northern Soul” 7A+ and “Preparation H” 7C+/8A. Northern Soul in an amazing boulder. It starts up a technical slab into a crack and the onto a hideously slopey topout in Highball terrain. I managed to flash this boulder with some beta from a very helpful ground crew. I got pretty close on Preparation H, dropping the top a few time before darkness stopped play. It was time to head home for turkey Fajitas, Scrabble, Red wine and NYE.

The next day we headed to Kyloe in the Woods, a fairly good wet weather option. There are many classics here through all the grades. We were here to try “The Yorkshireman” hard 7B+. Its an absolutely classic bloc which climbs a flared diagonal crack before a hard deadpoint move to a good edge and the top. I had to try hard on this and it was only with a bit of helpful Beta from Dan Varian that we figured out the bizarre sequence.

The best day we had was at Bowden doors. The conditions were perfect, it was cold clear and crisp. It was our fourth day on but this didn’t seem to be slowing us down. I had one of those great sessions where you sort of forget about the guidebook and walk along the crag climbing what looks good. Some of the best problems were Stagged 7B+, Temptation 7B+ and The Crack 7C+/8A, this, as its name suggests climbs a crack feature on a very font like boulder. The climb looks easy, feels nails when you are trying it and steady when you get it right.

Our last day was spent trekking around on the Simonside hills finding hidden boulders and admiring the stunning views. By day five my skin was thin and my body was aching but it was just so great to be out climbing on such good rock.

The short trip has left me with more projects to go at and I cannot wait to return to Northumberland. Below is a short video put together by Ben West from the trip.

F-BO 2015

Last year I attended F-BO 2014 (The Foundry’s annual bouldering competition). It was a great event with brilliant problems and big cash prizes.

Competing in the final of F-BO 14

This year the competition is happening again. If you are into your bouldering competitions this is definitely one to put on your list for this winter.

I hope to see you all there.

To get you psyched whilst you wait here is a video from last year.

Infinite Gravity and Palace of the Brine

When you mention the words Sport Climbing most people think of a casual day cragging, climb a few routes and clip a few bolts. I’m not saying you expect it to be easy, most people go sport climbing because they want to try HARD, in relative safety.

Well the sport climbing in Swanage is all together different! Long and complicated (for sport climbers) approaches, loose rock, rough seas and massive routes.

Last weekend Ben West and I travelled down to Swanage with two routes in mind. Infinite Gravity 8a+ and Palace of the Brine also 8a+. The weather forecast for Saturday was for a big band of rain to sweep across the UK in the morning, followed by an afternoon of sunny spells. Infinite Gravity starts in the back of a massive cave called Blackers Hole so we thought this might be a good place to be in the rain. After the approach which involved a 40 minute walk in, a scramble down a cliff and a via ferrata above the sea we arrived in the cave. The conditions in the cave were almost perfect with only the last few moves of this huge route being affected by the torrential rain outside.

Infinite Gravity climbs a massive steep arete feature for its entire 40 meter length and overhangs at 45 degrees.

On our first go up the route we equipped it with numerous extended quickdraws, got warmed up and worked out the moves. There was one move that concerned me, a big throw to a flat edge off a finger lock and an undercut.

First to climb was Ben. He climbed steadily for most of the route, regularly shaking out on the many big holds available, he climbed through what I perceived to be the crux with relative easy. “He is going to walk up this.” I thought to my self. How wrong I was. 5 meters from the end his elbows were up, he’d missed two clips and he was desperately digging around in a sandy break trying to find a big enough hold for is leaden arms to grasp. Somehow he made the last few moves to the belay and clipped the chains amid whooping crys of joy and fatigue. I couldn’t help but chuckle, seeing such a strong climber having to fight so hard on what I had assumed would be easy moves.

The thing with this route is that you have to make every go really count. If you fall high on the route it is questionable if you will have enough juice in the tank for another burn. Its not like short routes where you can fall, pull the ropes and have another go. This is definitely an endurance exercise which fatigues you with every go. I knew I had to do it this go. I climbed steadily through the first third, this climbs a steep groove split by a crack to the good rest. I felt good. Next up a steep section through a roof before pulling onto a hanging fang, undercuts and bad feet here really make the pump kick in. A few more moves lead to the crux, I was already feeling worked. “Ben had looked steady here and still had to fight at the top” I though to myself, “How am I going to have the beans at the top?” Banish the negative thoughts. Psych up for the crux. A little power scream and I have somehow latched the hold,my left arm was going to jelly,move on to the jug. “Ahhhhh” glory jug, shake out here. The foothold rips off I lurch onto my already fatigued arms but somehow hold on, flick my feet back onto the wall and move on. What was supposed to be a good rest and turned into an extremely unrest-full experience. Nearing the top my forearms have gone away from me. Its not really a pump but a tired empty feeling. There is no energy left in them. Five moves to the belay. I flop them onto holds blindly hoping they will grip, some how they do. I clip the chains. During my time on the climb (about 45 minutes) the sun has come out, I bask in is glory and whoop for joy.


Celebrating after clipping the chains on Infinite Gravity
Photo Ben West

We finished the day with a quick flash of “Rise of the Robots” 7c on the promenade before heading to the put to sink a few pints of celebratory cider.

The next morning we woke to bright sunshine. Today’s route of choice was Palace of the Brine. We had tried this route earlier in the summer but greasy conditions and hard and bizzar roof moves had shut me down. Ben had come close but not cigar. Today was a different story. Conditions were perfect, not a wet hold or damp crack anywhere. The only things that weren’t in condition were our bodies. I felt ruined from the climbing (and the ciders) the day before. “Oh well” my turn to put the clips in. The moves and the conditions felt great. The route climbs a vertical wall with funky moves on bad feet to a no hands rest at about 15 meters before questing through a groove feature in the massive horizontal roof. I climbed past my previous high point and on through the roof. Flarred hand jams and knee bars are de rigour. There is a hard section in the middle where you have to spin 180 degrees in the roof, I climbed through this section relatively easily and on to the the crux move out on the lip. This move involves a huge cross through off a bad hold into a slopey jug. I couldn’t reach the hold, my beta was whack, my feet were in the wrong place and I was off. I pulled back on, worked out some different beta then lowered off into the sea.

Ben’s go went smoothly. He had achieved what we had come to do, the big Swanage 8a+ double. I wanted it.

Ben West on Palace of the Brine
Photo Cailean Harker

I had one more go in me. I was achey and and shaking from fatigue. As I set off up the route a sea kayaker paddled past “Your mad!” He said.

“Yes we are” I thought “and I love it”.

Somehow I managed to finish the route. Knee bars saved the day!

Overall it was an epic weekend with some of the most enjoyable climbs and climbing experiences I have had for some time.

The holds are chalked and the conditions are good. Get down there people.

BMC Coaching Symposium

I Have just returned from a long weekend in North Wales where I was attending the annual BMC coaching symposium. This event is organised by the BMC to get a whole load of climbing coaches together to discuss best coaching practice, new ideas and techniques. Many of these coaches are also very keen climbers which makes for some good climbing sessions squeezed in around the course.


On Friday morning Ben West did Roof of Baby Buddha 7C+

Ben West on Rood of Baby Buddha

In the afternoon a whole group of us headed over to the little Orme to look at Rob Lamey’s DWS Heel Hook Look. We were supper psyched and supper unprepared which meant I ended up climbing the wrong/a variation on the original line at about 7c. We have called this variation “We ‘ad a Look”.

Mikey G on We ‘ad a look


As the tide dropped and the water became too shallow to solo we headed over to the Diamond to see what all the fuss was about. The via feratta approach was fun, and the routes where just as good! Both Ben West and I managed to onsight the classic Boat People 7c and I finished the day off with a monumental battle up the 35 meter Wall of Evening Light 7b+.

On Saturday we dragged a bunch of Britain’s finest climbers and coaches out for a night session at Elephantiasis cave. I’d told them there was a 4 star 7A among other problems to go at. It turns out my knowledge wasn’t completely up to scratch and we ended up being eaten by Midgys in a hot sweaty cave. I did manage a cool ascent of Going Down on an Elephant 7B+ in far from ideal conditions.

Sunday was the final day of the Symposium and it consisted of practical sessions at the Beacon climbing centre. We started with a session on on Drills and System Boards with Si Rawlinson. This session was great and really showed me that many climbing centres are missing a trick in this department. Expect to see changes in the way core climbing skills are taught in centres all around the country soon. The next session was Training vs Performance by Victoria Hadnett. This was about the way the mind deals with pressure and anxiety in a training and a performance environment as well as teaching us about how the mind learns new skills. Very interesting. We finished the day off with a session from Tom Greenall and Lucinda Whittaker about Building the Athlete. In this session we learnt about how to train and coach a climber to become and all round athlete and one that will be able to participate in our sport for a long time without the fear of injury or burn out.

Today was a day of trad. I have not done much trad climbing since taking a ground fall from a hard route back in the Summer of 2013. What better partner to go out with on a trad day than Mike Goldthorp. We had our eyes set on Pretty Girls Make Graves which is an E6 6b up on Cwm Glas Bach. We warmed up on El Guide Direct E3 5c. I was expecting this route to feel tricky and a little scary as my head really hasn’t been in the trad game. It went like a dream! We moved onto Rimsky Korsakov, a soft E5 6a just to the left. This route also went down smoothly with not much of a fight. Next up was Pretty Girls, but on the way round we became distracted by a line of chalk up a small blank wall just to the right. This route is called Ring my Bell. After a fall or two from us both we each lead the route ground up. We had thought the route was E6 6b but it turns out it has been upgraded to E7 6b, happy days! Next up was the main event. Pretty Girls Make Graves. This route had a reputation for being fiercely pumpy on good gear. I was up first. I was feeling great, all but no trad for 18 months and here I was having an awesome day. I started my way up the crack systems, finger locks and hand jams everywhere and more gear than you can shake a stick at. Had I placed to much? I was getting pumped, I could feel the lactic acid coursing through my veins. On the last move you takes a big pinch with your left hand crank for a jug at the top. I was in. I whooped for joy and pulled my sweaty coursing body over the top into a crumpled heap.

“This is what trad is all about” I thought to myself.

I’m back in the game! (Just in time for bouldering season)